The Public Diners campaign has been pushing for the return of UK state-supported infrastructure for food. The idea of food as a public service is not new, but follows similar infrastructure already existing in many places around the world: hawker centres in Singapore, milk bars in Poland, canteens in China. Beyond affiliation with any state or political ideology, this movement speaks to governments on food as a basic human right.
Similar campaigns have been gaining traction internationally. Public Food is a food justice organization based in the Netherlands on a mission to make healthy and delicious food accessible to all. Public Food’s policy initiative is creatively plated up in a fresh, original way in the form of Mensa Mensa, a pilot for what such a place might look like.
Located on the ground floor of a community centre in Rotterdam South, bold, vibrant décor complements the wide range of colourful, plant-based dishes served at the counter. Opposite this, boxes of fresh produce sit in an open kitchen where members of the community can be seen preparing food.
Left: Public Food infographics lining the walls: “good food is a basic right, not luxury”, “the food industry will not help us”, “that’s why we started Mensa Mensa, to provide affordable good food for all”.
Centre: “affordable good food” slogan crocheted by Mehtap, who also cooks and works behind the counter
Right: Selection of dishes available at the counter
The idea is simple. For €10, someone could spend a few hours meal prepping and take at least three dinners worth of food back for the whole household. The rest is sold at the pick-what-you-want canteen for €5 a plate, with teas and coffees available at €1. The meal: hearty salads, tempeh, potato wedges, flatbread, warm, filling, comfort food made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Sitting down at a long table with a full plate of food, chatting to staff, cooks and other members of the community, everyone looked comfortable and relaxed. As a newcomer, I, too, felt welcome and at ease, and of course, the food was delicious. It feels like I was taking a glimpse into what the future of public diners could look like.
Mensa Mensa is a warm, welcoming space where people gather and new ideas bloom. But, it also risks being mistaken as a charity project. It must be emphasized that Public Food’s vision is for what Mensa Mensa offers to be state supported. It is through public funding that initiatives like Mensa Mensa are able to operate continuously to support their communities.
The international effort pushing for public food reflects frustration with broken food systems on a global scale. As food becomes treated like a commercial business opportunity rather than a basic human right, profit is taken at the expense of health and nourishment. Fast-food chains dominate affordable options while good food comes with a hefty price tag. The reaction to this unsustainable, unaffordable, unhealthy food environment is the not-so-radical idea that good food should not be a luxury.
Mensa Mensa exemplifies what a public diner may look like, as a state-supported restaurant where food is a public good. Not all public diners will look the same, with the same menu, décor nor dining experience. Instead, Public Food hopes for Mensa Mensa to be a case study to demonstrate that food is a cause deserving of public funding. The continued interest and success of Mensa Mensa is a testament that Public Diners really are possible and within grasp.